Anaïs Claes (JBC): “New, second-hand, and rental coexist perfectly”

Everything in fashion is about creativity, not least sustainability, if you ask Anaïs Claes. As Sustainability Manager and third generation at JBC, she continues to build on the mission: democratising fashion and making it future-proof. “We want to present sustainability as something positive”, she says – and will make that case on the RetailDetail Night on 20 November.

The power of difference

Within the Claes Retail Group, the umbrella organization above JBC, CKS, Mayerline, and more, each brand has its own approach to sustainability. “Each according to its own identity and customer base. At CKS, for example, we work with rental and residual materials that we reuse in creative ways, such as for workshops in which customers learn to make accessories. That makes sustainability tangible.”

“Mayerline, on the other hand, focuses on lifetime guarantees and repairability. We have an alteration service, and old clothes that are brought in are reworked into new pieces with Re-New. And at JBC, we continue to believe strongly in second-hand,” Claes sums up. “We were the first Belgian fashion chain to market this on such a large scale and continue to invest in it. It’s a great example of circular fashion that also works commercially.”

Claes believes that different circular models will continue to coexist. “Second-hand, rental, repair—they complement each other. Rental is still underexposed, but it can be a fantastic way for people who want variety without having to buy all the time.” She also sees a cultural tipping point there. “We live materialistically; ownership is central. But I believe that renting, sharing, and reusing will gain ground, especially among younger generations.”

“It has to remain fun”

Nevertheless, Claes wants to avoid sustainability setting the tone for the brand. “Fashion should remain fun. It shouldn’t be all about numbers and data. We have to be more than our sustainability projects,” Claes concludes. “We have to stand out with a strong collection, with quality, with fun. Only then does sustainability really mean something.”

The prime example is the recent capsule collection with designer Walter Van Beirendonck. The collection, made with leftover knitting wool yarns, sold out in no time. “It was technically challenging, but the result shows that sustainability can also be artistic. It was also fantastic to see how Van Beirendonck was open to being creative with the limitations.”

Being creative within limits is what the group is currently working on at HNST , the circular denim brand that CRG acquired in 2024. “We are developing new models that remain true to the label’s identity, but at the same time better suit our customers. The goal is always to make sustainable choices mainstream, without making the price unattainable.” According to Claes, this is crucial: “Pants that use much less water and CO₂, but that no one buys because they are too expensive, are not sustainable either. Democratizing sustainability, that is our task.”

“Legislation offers opportunities, but be clear”

Even in the European legislation affecting the textile sector, the sustainability manager sees creative opportunities. JBC has already experimented with a digital product passport. “We saw it as more than just compliance. We asked ourselves: how can we turn this into a story that appeals to customers? Think of maternity pants that you can rent, where you can read stories from other women who wore the same item. That creates a sense of connection and extends the life of the product.”

But then clarity is needed, sooner rather than later. “There is still little concrete knowledge, and that makes it difficult. The sooner the guidelines are clear, the better companies can prepare. Because implementation requires a lot of time, resources, and IT investments. Don’t underestimate it: we already have a huge amount of data points, and eventually you risk drowning in it.”

99% is sold

Data already shows Anaïs Claes where the opportunities lie in the supply chain. She strongly questions claims that 30-40% of fashion goods produced are never sold. “People like to say that fashion companies have such a large proportion of unsold goods, but how can they remain profitable? I know for a fact that 99% of what JBC produces is sold.”

She also proudly emphasizes the recognition of the Fair Wear Foundation: “We are the only Belgian retailer to have achieved a successful score. This means that our efforts in terms of fair wages and safe working conditions are having a real impact.”

The fact that social attention to sustainability fluctuates “should not be an excuse.” Claes would find it difficult to work somewhere where sustainability is a mandatory requirement, and many of her generation would feel the same. “I am grateful that sustainability is not up for debate at our company. That makes it easier to make sometimes difficult decisions. The fact that Ann and Bart (Claes) continue to convey that message themselves also inspires confidence throughout the organization.”

At RetailDetail Night, Anaïs Claes will be talking exclusively with Olivier Van den Bossche (MediaMarkt), Wouter Kolk (formerly Ahold Delhaize & WE Fashion), and Geoffroy Gersdorff (Carrefour) in an interactive panel discussion.